‘Beautiful board’: How chess saved an Indian village from alcohol, gambling | Health

Marottichal, India – Telephones, wallets and half-drunk teacups litter empty tables – aside from one – at a teahouse in southern India, the place a crowd has fashioned round a chess board and two opponents.

One in all them is 15-year-old Gowrishankar Jayaraj. Surrounded by spectators vying for a view of the chess board, Jayaraj is competing blindfolded.

Enjoying blind from the sport’s opening means {the teenager} should visualise, preserve and replace a psychological mannequin of the board, as strikes from each gamers are communicated aloud by a chosen referee.

Jayaraj is taking part in a a lot older Child John, whose expression is taut with discomfort. His shrinking shoulders and pursed mouth betray that he’s a handful of strikes away from dropping his fourth sport in almost 40 minutes.

“Gowrishankar is simply 15 and already one thing of a chess prodigy. He beats me even when he’s blind,” says John.

‘Chess Village of India’

Jayaraj and John are residents of Marottichal, a sleepy village of almost 6,000 residents positioned on the foot of the Western Ghats within the picturesque Thrissur district of India’s Kerala state.

Within the early 2000s, Marottichal turned identified by the chess group in Kerala because the “Chess Village of India” as a result of at the very least one individual in each family right here is believed to be chess-proficient. Throughout the village, individuals commonly sit throughout chessboards, competing within the shade of bus stops, exterior grocery outlets and on the playground.

“Greater than 4,500 individuals right here – or 75 p.c – of the village’s 6,000 residents are proficient gamers,” says John, who can be the president of Marottichal’s Chess Affiliation.

Jayaraj is at present ranked inside India’s high 600 energetic chess gamers, based on the World Chess Federation (FIDE), and hopes so as to add to India’s growing stature as a global leader within the sport.

In September, India swept the Open and Women’s gold medals on the 2024 Chess Olympiad. Then, the nation’s youngest-ever grandmaster, Gukesh Dommaraju, 18, received the World Chess Championship in December. And Grandmaster Koneru Humpy capped off a victory-laden yr for India after she received the FIDE Ladies’s World Speedy Chess Championship the identical month.

Jayaraj, who at present holds a 2012 ranking by FIDE, hopes to comply with within the footsteps of Indian heroes like Viswanathan Anand and Dommaraju, and grow to be a grandmaster.

His dream displays the lengthy journey Marottichal has taken to interrupt from a status very totally different from the one it at present relishes.

‘King and saviour’

4 many years in the past, the village was within the grip of an alcohol habit and playing disaster that was pushing many households to the verge of damage. 

Within the Seventies, three Marottichal households had been brewing nut-based alcohol for private consumption. However by the early 80s, the village had grow to be a regional hub for illicit alcohol manufacturing.

“Folks weren’t simply ingesting, they had been brewing and promoting liquor of their homes each night time,” Jayaraj Manazhy, a resident of the village – unrelated to Gowrishankar Jayaraj – tells Al Jazeera.

The commerce flowed between villages with Marottichal because the supply of the alcohol.

However farming households started to neglect their livestock and crops. With diminishing returns from the land, villagers quickly turned to playing by means of card video games on the liquor manufacturing homes, from the place bookies additionally operated.

A scarcity of normal earnings and the reliance on alcohol noticed many households fall into poverty.

“Younger kids had been left with out garments to put on. Others had been ravenous,” says one other native, who requested anonymity. There appeared to be no hope for an finish to the epidemic.

Till Charaliyil Unnikrishnan, an area resident-turned-exile, returned to Marottichal within the late Nineteen Eighties.

Unnikrishnan had been shunned by his household for becoming a member of a Maoist motion in his youth. He gave up the motion and returned in his early 30s to arrange a teahouse within the coronary heart of the village.

However the affect alcohol held over his village perturbed the previous insurgent. “It was a darkish time again then for our group,” he recollects to Al Jazeera.

Unnikrishnan determined to behave.

He assembled a small group of mates whom he had identified from his teenage years within the village and commenced networking with the wives and moms of the liquor producers who had been angered by their husbands and sons for spearheading manufacturing.

Over the course of months, Unnikrishnan acquired remoted tip-offs about brewing instances, which often occurred lengthy into the night time. Unnikrishnan and his mates would raid the homes the place alcohol was being produced and saved, destroying hidden provides and the gear used to supply it.

Typically, they had been met with resistance, however Unnikrishnan had amassed help from the opposite villagers who had been determined for change. The producers, with declining demand and little means to restart their enterprise, had been outnumbered.

After the raids, Unnikrishnan would invite members of the group to play chess.

“The sport introduced us collectively. We began speaking about it increasingly more, and folks would meet to play slightly than drink,” says John, who secured funding from different villages to create regional tournaments and efficiently campaigned for chess to grow to be a part of the curriculum in each the decrease and higher major colleges within the village.

“We actually began to piece collectively our lives round this stunning board,” he says.

At his store, Unnikrishnan served the villagers not simply tea, but additionally his imaginative and prescient of a future freed from alcohol habit. And that, he informed them, may very well be achieved by means of chess, an historic sport of technique believed to have originated in India.

Quickly, individuals engrossed over a chess board turned a standard sight throughout the village.

In the meantime, instances of alcohol habit and playing started to say no within the village. Households, as soon as devastated by the bottle, as an alternative huddled collectively round a chess board, competing in opposition to family members for the excessive of a checkmate.

“Earlier than we knew chess, many [of us] had been listless,” says Francis Kachapilly, a recovered alcoholic, as he stands alongside Unnikrishnan on the teahouse watching Jayaraj and John play.

“We didn’t have a spotlight. Chess gave us one thing new.”

Unnikrishnan taught chess to virtually 1,000 villagers and has himself competed in opposition to grandmasters internationally. A number of younger gamers from Marottichal are competing internationally and inside India commonly.

In 2016, Marottichal was awarded a Common Asian File by the Common Information Discussion board for the best variety of novice opponents (1,001) taking part in chess concurrently in Asia.

Unnikrishnan, now 67, is fondly “identified to the individuals in Marottichal as our king and saviour”, says John.

‘Chess introduced me again to life’

In contrast to playing, there’s virtually no aspect of probability in chess.

The sport is deterministic – the participant who makes one of the best assortment of strikes wins; and the foundations and format take away the chance to quote antagonistic situations as excuses or blame dangerous luck for losses.

Unnikrishnan is reluctant to say that the worth chess locations on making good choices and avoiding dangerous ones is solely accountable for the discount in alcoholism and playing in Marottichal.

However he believes it had a “large influence”.

The world over, chess has been instrumental in treating habit and psychological and cognitive points. In Spain, the game was included into rehabilitation programmes to deal with drug, alcohol and playing habit. Extra just lately, in the UK, psychologist Rosie Meeks argued that jail chess golf equipment helped to “scale back violence and battle, develop communication and different expertise, and promote optimistic use of leisure time” amongst inmates.

Few have felt the good thing about chess greater than Jayem Vallur.

The 59-year-old is vice chairman of Marottichal’s Chess Affiliation and considered one of its most enthusiastic gamers.

Simply earlier than midday on a cool day in January at Unnikrishnan’s teahouse, he opens his match with a beaming smile, and by the center sport, he’s laughing infectiously together with his opponent. Items are exchanged over bawdy jokes on the black-and-white board between them.

Twenty-five years in the past, Vallur was combating for his life after he suffered a high-speed crash whereas using his motorbike. First responders peeled his lifeless physique from the highway and rushed him to the hospital the place he would spend two months hooked to life-support machines.

“Docs informed my household and mates that my mind had been severely broken by the crash,” Vallur tells Al Jazeera.

He was utterly paralysed at first, however slowly started to regain motion in his decrease physique. Unnikrishnan and John had been amongst his closest mates and would spend hours beside his hospital mattress.

After Vallur began to point out indicators of enchancment in his speech, his mates would deliver a chess board with them throughout their visits. Quickly, his cognitive features started to enhance. In the present day, solely his proper arm is paralysed from the shoulder down.

Vallur believes the common chess matches throughout his restoration helped. “Chess introduced me again to life,” he says.

In 2023, Marottichal’s redemption attracted the eye of filmmaker and author Kabeer Khurana, who directed a 35-minute movie, The Pawn of Marottichal, charting the village’s battle with habit to its restoration.

Khurana, whose movie is ready for launch this yr, says he “sensed the passion, ardour and power of the individuals when he first visited the village”.

Again at Unnikrishnan’s teahouse, the noon video games are starting to wrap up. Vallur steps as much as the plate for a remaining sport in opposition to Jayaraj, who’s victorious once more.

“I taught his mom the way to play,” says Vallur, smiling. “He’s going to make the entire of India proud.”